May 01, 2009 | Post by: Phil Lees 3 Comments

Meandering through Sheung Wan

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Just to avoid the impression that I did nothing but eat in Hong Kong, I also spent a few lazy hours wandering the streets of Sheung Wan in a dumpling and pork induced stupor, planning which dumpling place I’d hit next and remembering dumplings past.

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Sheung Wan is where the edible dried miscellany vendors hawk their wares. If you can dry it, someone here sells it as food or medicine. If you need a whole Yunnanese ham, one hundred kilos of fish maw or a bag of assorted turtle plastrons, this is where you will find it. As far as I know, of these three ingredients only one ends up in a dumpling.

Every store has a rich odor of its own, a musty smell that permeates even the passing trams on Des Vouex Road. I find it homely but it is probably not the olfactory overload that most tourists are seeking. You can always head over to the Flower Market Street over in Kowloon.

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The surrounding alleyways are packed with small packing houses, distributors and vendors. Porters lug boxes in and out of trucks, and onto low-slung metal trolleys. A few streets specialise in abalone, bird’s nest and ginseng. Judging by the “No Photography” signs on the abalone vendors, I’d wager that a proportion of the abalone is smuggled.

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Pickled cabbage vessel, cracked and leaking lurid chili. Not everything stays intact.

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3 Comments to Meandering through Sheung Wan

  1. Simon Food Favourites
    May 2, 2009 1:16 pm

    looks so interesting.
    s :-)

  2. Edward
    May 8, 2009 9:24 pm

    I miss Hong Kong and the smell. Even the stink of car fumes. The noise, the light, the pace and most of all the memories that each street and place seems to carry.

  3. Tom
    October 25, 2009 10:56 am

    that looks so interesting… I’m going to Hong Kong in 3 weeks.. I can’t wait to see all this, though I think i’ll get sick of dumplings hehe…

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